Do you enjoy sitting outside during a cool quiet evening? Most people would agree that it can be very pleasant and relaxing. But when cool becomes cold, outside is no longer fun. That is of course if you don’t have an outdoor patio heater. With patio heaters, you can enjoy a cup of tea outside even in late autumn or early spring. Find out what types of patio heaters exist and how you can find the best one for your place.

What Source of Fuel Can Patio Heaters Use?

Just like any other heaters you can find outdoor patio heaters that run on different fuel sources. Most common are: natural gas, propane, electric and wood outdoor heaters. The fuel type doesn’t actually make any difference to how big the aria your heater covers. That depends on the heater’s size. Really powerful heaters can cover the whole backyard, but majority of heaters effectively heat up your patio, so their range is only several meters.

Your Options for Outdoor Patio Heaters

The design of outdoor heaters can be different. One of the most popular designs is the umbrella patio heater. They usually run on propane and can keep large (up to 20 feet in diameter) space warm. The heat is produced out through the cylinder at the top while the fuel burns at the bottom of the heating unit. This type of outdoor heater doesn’t take much room because it is vertical and it is also very decorative, so not only it will warm your family and guests, but also add style to the design of your patio.

Wood burning outdoor patio heater is another popular variety of patio heaters. As the name indicates this type of heater runs on wood. Wood heater is very economical; however some areas have laws against wood combustion. Make sure wood outdoor heaters are allowed in your aria before buying one. Another advantage of wood patio heater is that your heater can be combined with a cooking grill, so you can enjoy making a hot snack while using your heater.

Majority of outdoor heaters are made of durable materials, the most popular is stainless steel. You can also find very decorative patio heaters with an antique copper finish or heaters painted in different colors.

Safety Rules for Outdoor Patio Heaters

Outdoor heaters are only meant to be used outside, never try to turn one on indoors. The gas cylinders that provide fuel for gas outdoor heater should not be stored inside. If you want to use wood burning heaters, you will need to install a chimney so that sparks coming out can be limited and damage to your home and outdoor furniture may be prevented.

It is important to explain to kids that a heater is not a thing to play with. Also store all the fuels for your heater in a locked garden shed, so the little ones can’t get to it.

Cleaning and maintaining your heater regularly is also very important to ensure that it is working properly and to minimize the pollution from it.

Nothing can relax you more than having a cup of tea sitting on your patio in the evening. When evenings are chilly, an outdoor patio heater can make the experience much more pleasant. And if you are having a barbecue or an outdoor party, you guests will surely appreciate the warmth.

The materials and finishes that we use on the interior of our homes require cleaning and occasional maintenance; we dust, we vacuum, we mop-n-glo to keep them looking good and long lasting. Without too much effort we can stay ahead of the wear and tear from our kids and our pets.

Materials on the outside, however take a daily beating from the sun, wind, rain, temperature changes, and other environmental elements (in addition to kids and dogs). Those materials need a great deal more care and maintenance but that can be reduced somewhat by selecting the proper materials to suit your goals.

Outdoor decks are subject to a great deal of abuse – the deck surface is especially susceptible to sun and rain. Wood is the most popular surface for decks, but it’s also the quickest to wear out. Fortunately there are a variety of deck surface products available that allow you to choose between appearance, cost, and the effort needed to keep your deck looking great for many years.

Natural Wood Decking

Natural wood is the obvious first choice for decking. It’s sturdy, attractive, easy to work with, and it comes in a wide variety of types with different qualities and costs.

Pressure-treated wood decking is far and away the most popular decking surface in use today. Most PT lumber is made from Southern Yellow Pine, impregnated with ACQ, a chemical that increases the wood’s resistance to rot and insect damage. But treated lumber is often poorer quality material so the wood shrinks, cracks, and splits more easily.

A better choice for “real” wood decks is one of the many woods that have a natural resistance to rot and insect damage. These woods include Western Red Cedar, Redwood, and some species of tropical hardwoods. While these better quality decking materials last longer and look better they also cost more. One of the very best natural deck surfaces is a group of South American hardwoods called Ipe (“Ipe” is Portuguese for hardwood). These are extremely dense, tight-grained woods, dark in color and virtually free from knots. Ipe is very hard, heavy, and difficult to work with but is also very beautiful and is nearly indestructible. Expect to pay top dollar for Ipe materials and the labor to install it.

The use of any type of natural wood decking comes with some negative environmental impact. When pressure-treated decking is disposed of, the chemicals used to treat the wood may leach into groundwater; burning it puts these same chemicals into the air. And while the new ACQ treatment is less toxic than the previous CCA (which contains arsenic) the long-term effects of the chemical aren’t fully known.

Much of the tropical hardwood used for decking material is plantation-grown, but some isn’t and at the retail level it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference. Most folks don’t want their decks built at the expense of an acre of rainforest.

Wood Composite Decking

Wood Composite decking has become very popular recently due to its longevity and environmentally friendly characteristics. It’s a pretty good imitation of natural wood in workability and appearance.

Sold under names like Trex, Correctdeck, and Timbertech, composite decking boards are made from recycled plastic (usually grocery bags or milk jugs) and ground-up waste wood. It can be cut and attached like real wood and requires almost no maintenance. Composite decking mimics the look of natural wood but varies in appearance and performance depending upon the manufacturer and the ratio of plastic to wood in the mix, usually about 50-60% wood products.

Although composite decking can’t be stained or painted like natural wood, many manufacturers produce boards in several colors. Since the color is throughout the material, chips and scrapes don’t require restaining to maintain a consistent appearance. And because of the high wood content, the uncolored composite boards weather to a pleasing silver-gray.

As with any decking surface, the method of securing composite decking to the framing can improve or reduce the appearance of the deck. Poor installation can even affect the structural integrity of the boards. Ideally, all decking boards should be installed with concealed fasteners – more effort and expense, but the result is a better looking and longer lasting deck.

There are a few other choices in decking – Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) for example, but they look much less like “traditional” decking than natural wood or wood composite. All-plastic and aluminum decking products also require the use of a large number of end caps, specialized fasteners, and other proprietary parts and pieces that can detract from the overall appearance of the deck.

Your choice of decking depends upon the desired appearance, budget, and your tolerance for the required maintenance of different materials. A good balance of those characteristics should result in a deck surface that the whole family will enjoy for many years – kids, dogs, and all.

Before you start a patio or any other home improvement work, make sure you have the time and commitment to see it through. It might have only taken the builder 2 or 3 days to do your neighbours patio but he’s doing it for money. After a hard days digging its easy to think sod this, I’ll finish it next weekend. The next thing you know your garden spends the whole summer looking like a building site and your wife takes herself and the kids to her mothers!

Planning your patio. Keep it nice and simple, forget curves and other fancy shapes. Choose a paving slab that matches the colour of your house, you want it to blend in not stand out like a sore thumb. Plan the size of your patio to suit the size of your slabs so that minimal cutting is not required. Remember to allow 10mm for each joint when measuring out your area.

Tools required. A spade and shovel. A fork if grass needs to be removed. A rubber mallet. A spirit level. Lines and pegs. Wheelbarrow. Safety gloves.

From the hire shop. Small cement mixer and compactor (also known as a wacca) plate. If cuts are required an angle grinder or disc cutter with safety goggles.

Marking out. Use pegs and lines to mark out your area. To check your angles measure from corner to corner. The distance between corners 1 and 3 should measure the same as corners 2 and 4.

Digging out. You should dig down about 100mm (4inch). As your patio is going to butt up to your home you must make sure that the top of the paving slabs will finish at least 150mm below your damp course. Also, it is important that your patio slopes away from your house. 2.5cm for every 2m or 1inch for every 6ft.

If you are only digging out top soil you should be able to get away with dispersing it around your garden. Anything else and you will require a skip.

Laying the hard core. Spread the hard core approx. 100mm (4inch) deep. Run the wacca plate over the hardcore, adding more to any low points. Your hardcore should finish about 75mm (3inch) in depth and should be solid under foot.

Laying your slabs. Mix sand and cement without water at a ratio of 5 sand to 1 cement. If you are using a small mixer, 10 shovels of sand and 2 of cement is just enough for the mixer and gives you a good wheelbarrow full.

Spread out your sand and cement mix in a corner. If you are butting up to your house, start against the wall. Using a straight edge such as a length of 2×4 timber, level out the mix. It wants to be fairly firm but not so firm that you can’t tap down the slabs into place.

Place your first slab down and tap it in place with your rubber mallet. If the mix hasn’t been packed down too hard you should be able to position the slab. Use your level to make sure this first slab is bang on. All the other slabs work from this one so take your time to make sure its correct. It wants to be level following the brickwork of your house but with a very slight slope away from your home.

Always work off the hardcore. Don’t stand on your paving slabs for a few days while the sand and cement sets. Use a spirit level to check each slab as you lay them. If a slab goes down too easy, lift it and spread more sand and cement.

Once you have laid several square metres worth of your paving slabs, spread some mix on top and brush it into the joints. You may have to do this several times as the mix settles in the joints.

Alternatives. Consider using block pavers instead of slabs or building your patio in decking. If your patio needs to be raised because it finishes above ground level you will need to build a base. An alternative to raising in brick is to use railway sleepers.